We're guessing that there's almost nobody left who hasn't seen Malaysia's catchy tourism ad campaign, Malaysia: Truly Asia. We caught ourselves singing it a little too often as we made our way through the country, usually whenever something went slightly wrong. We're still not sure quite what "truly Asia" means, but we're forced to concede that they may have a point. Malaysia turns out to be an astonishing continental melting pot, blending ethnicities, cuisines, languages and religions in unexpected and wonderful ways.
Our first stop after crossing the border was the port city of Georgetown, Malaysia's second largest city after Kuala Lampur. The city's architecture is an ecclectic mix of English, Chinese, Malay and Indian influences. Indian roti carts and tandoor joints compete with cheap Chinese pig organ soup, British pubs dispensing fish and chips, Malay-run hamburger stands and Islamic diners. One afternoon, we came upon a Chinese temple (pictured above) where huge crowds had gathered to petition their ancestors for good luck, or "joss," in the coming year. Meanwhile, outside on the sidewalk, wealthy Chinese families dispensed oranges and red envelopes full of cash to all comers. Hindus lined up for their share, then paid homage with the same joss sticks to a sacred tree adorned with images of their pantheon. We watched the commotion for an hour, then headed off for a pint of Guinness, some Malasian barbecue and the latest Bollywood movie.
In the midst of this cultural hodgepodge, common ground can be surprisingly easy to find. Our last night in town, we befriended a 16-year-old Malay-Chinese Muslim girl on the ferry, and accepted her offer to visit her home. She was full of questions (something we've become used to), but not about where we came from. How did we meet? How did we fall in love? How did we know we were right for one another? Is her boyfriend right for her? How can she tell? How can she get him to be more romantic? IS HE THE ONE?? She never took off her headscarf around us, but she was careful to put on her makeup before we left to meet her boyfriend for dinner.
Our next stop in Malaysia was Kuala Lampur, a teeming modern capitol and emerging economic center. The ethnic neighborhoods were full of hawkers and street merchants, food stalls and fake watches, but there was no mistaking the gleam of the financial district's towers above it all. We slurped cheap noodles on the sidewalk while gazing up at the world's tallest building, contemplating Asia's complicated, headlong economic rise.
From Kuala Lampur, we headed down the coast to the historic city of Melaka. One of Portugal's original trade hubs in Asia, the city was the brightest star in Asia's economic sky until Portugese and Dutch dominance in the Pacific passed to England and Singapore rose to prominance. Today, its a quaint city of old Dutch houses and forts, with a vibrant Chinese district we were lucky to discover in the midst of Chinese New Year. Built by prosperous Chinese traders in the 19th century, the district is a unique blend of European and Chinese architectural styles.
Our first stop after crossing the border was the port city of Georgetown, Malaysia's second largest city after Kuala Lampur. The city's architecture is an ecclectic mix of English, Chinese, Malay and Indian influences. Indian roti carts and tandoor joints compete with cheap Chinese pig organ soup, British pubs dispensing fish and chips, Malay-run hamburger stands and Islamic diners. One afternoon, we came upon a Chinese temple (pictured above) where huge crowds had gathered to petition their ancestors for good luck, or "joss," in the coming year. Meanwhile, outside on the sidewalk, wealthy Chinese families dispensed oranges and red envelopes full of cash to all comers. Hindus lined up for their share, then paid homage with the same joss sticks to a sacred tree adorned with images of their pantheon. We watched the commotion for an hour, then headed off for a pint of Guinness, some Malasian barbecue and the latest Bollywood movie.
In the midst of this cultural hodgepodge, common ground can be surprisingly easy to find. Our last night in town, we befriended a 16-year-old Malay-Chinese Muslim girl on the ferry, and accepted her offer to visit her home. She was full of questions (something we've become used to), but not about where we came from. How did we meet? How did we fall in love? How did we know we were right for one another? Is her boyfriend right for her? How can she tell? How can she get him to be more romantic? IS HE THE ONE?? She never took off her headscarf around us, but she was careful to put on her makeup before we left to meet her boyfriend for dinner.
Our next stop in Malaysia was Kuala Lampur, a teeming modern capitol and emerging economic center. The ethnic neighborhoods were full of hawkers and street merchants, food stalls and fake watches, but there was no mistaking the gleam of the financial district's towers above it all. We slurped cheap noodles on the sidewalk while gazing up at the world's tallest building, contemplating Asia's complicated, headlong economic rise.
From Kuala Lampur, we headed down the coast to the historic city of Melaka. One of Portugal's original trade hubs in Asia, the city was the brightest star in Asia's economic sky until Portugese and Dutch dominance in the Pacific passed to England and Singapore rose to prominance. Today, its a quaint city of old Dutch houses and forts, with a vibrant Chinese district we were lucky to discover in the midst of Chinese New Year. Built by prosperous Chinese traders in the 19th century, the district is a unique blend of European and Chinese architectural styles.
1 comment:
Hey guys! Great blog! Love the writing - and its great to travel vicariously. Gems like these of inter-cultural mixing in the arts and architecture are truly among the "sunnum bonnum" of the traveling life.
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