We thought long and hard about skipping Singapore. We didn't know quite what to expect from the tiny island nation, and didn't want to wind up getting caned for smuggling chewing gum over the border. Still, it seemed like too much of an enigma to miss, so we thought we'd take a chance.
We weren't disappointed. Malaysia may be Asia's melting pot, but Singapore is its New York, the Bronx and Brooklyn where every culture imaginable interacts in claustrophobic proximity. The results could easily be disastrous, but thanks to a paternalistic government that stresses multiculturalism while strictly enforcing order, the place hums along like Disney's Small World ride, everyone singing and smiling in almost mechanical unison.
For a visitor or an ex-patriot businessman, Singapore has immense appeal. The streets are safe at three in the morning, the trains run on time, you can drink the tap water, and there isn't a scrap of garbage in sight. If it's available anywhere in the world, it's available for purchase in Singapore. The art museum is among the best in Asia, and free. The ethnic neighborhoods are like wonderland versions of their parent nations. In Little India, for example, the food rivaled Jaipur's best and the bazaars teemed with Delhi's latest - but without the homeless street cows feeding on mountains of trash, the incessantly aggressive hawkers, the lepers at our feet. As one American ex-pat told us, "I love this place. Everything's here, but without the stress. It's like Asia for dummies!"
We had a wonderful time, but few illusions about the trade-offs involved. Singapore is something of a living shrine to free-market capitalism, but also one of the world's least democratic places. Numerous offenses, including vandalism, are punished by caning. Chewing gum is illegal, jaywalking carries a $1,000 fine, and drug smugglers are executed. At the same time, very little of that heavy-handedness seems to be necessary at this point. Police presence is minimal, unobtrusive, polite and professional. For the most part, deterrence is working. Whatever your view on the compromises involved, so is Singapore.
We weren't disappointed. Malaysia may be Asia's melting pot, but Singapore is its New York, the Bronx and Brooklyn where every culture imaginable interacts in claustrophobic proximity. The results could easily be disastrous, but thanks to a paternalistic government that stresses multiculturalism while strictly enforcing order, the place hums along like Disney's Small World ride, everyone singing and smiling in almost mechanical unison.
For a visitor or an ex-patriot businessman, Singapore has immense appeal. The streets are safe at three in the morning, the trains run on time, you can drink the tap water, and there isn't a scrap of garbage in sight. If it's available anywhere in the world, it's available for purchase in Singapore. The art museum is among the best in Asia, and free. The ethnic neighborhoods are like wonderland versions of their parent nations. In Little India, for example, the food rivaled Jaipur's best and the bazaars teemed with Delhi's latest - but without the homeless street cows feeding on mountains of trash, the incessantly aggressive hawkers, the lepers at our feet. As one American ex-pat told us, "I love this place. Everything's here, but without the stress. It's like Asia for dummies!"
We had a wonderful time, but few illusions about the trade-offs involved. Singapore is something of a living shrine to free-market capitalism, but also one of the world's least democratic places. Numerous offenses, including vandalism, are punished by caning. Chewing gum is illegal, jaywalking carries a $1,000 fine, and drug smugglers are executed. At the same time, very little of that heavy-handedness seems to be necessary at this point. Police presence is minimal, unobtrusive, polite and professional. For the most part, deterrence is working. Whatever your view on the compromises involved, so is Singapore.
6 comments:
Hi Guys!
Thanks for the updates. We are so happy that Susannah has been able to reap the rewards of diving, after having persevered in the less than stellar Seattle conditions.
You guys look great, as the whole Marco Polo thing seems to fit you well. Mom's got her visa, so there's no stopping her now.
Love, Dad B
Okay, you've convinced me, I'm moving to Singapore! Even if it means giving up my pack a day gum habit.
Love,
Lib
That was sudden. You were in Singapore over the weekend and now in Bali. Did you fly? Any time in Java? Your diving adventures sounded fantastic, and I envy your exposure to all the exotic cuisines of Asia in Malaysia and S'pore. Do you miss bagels? Bali should be great and give you chances to surpass even your current elevated standard of compelling photography. Love DOD
Have you read Disneyland with the Death Penalty, but William Gibson? Great piece, I think he wrote it for Wired. Great insight on Singapore.
The best posting yet! You will never forget this. Bring some betel nut home....
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